Save The smell of smoked haddock simmering in milk used to drift through my kitchen on rainy Thursday evenings, back when I was testing ways to make risotto feel less predictable. I'd grown tired of the usual mushroom and asparagus versions, so I started playing with fish. The first batch turned out too salty, the second too bland, but by the third attempt, I'd figured out the balance between smoky, creamy, and bright. Now it's the dish I make when I want something comforting but a little unexpected.
I made this for a small dinner once when a friend mentioned she was bored of chicken. She stood by the stove with a glass of wine, watching me stir, asking questions about the stock and the lemon zest. By the time we sat down, she'd already decided to make it herself the following week. It's become one of those recipes that gets passed along quietly, like a good secret.
Ingredients
- Smoked haddock fillets: Look for undyed fillets, the natural pale gold ones, because the bright yellow versions can taste overly salty and artificial.
- Whole milk: This poaches the fish gently and becomes part of the risotto base, adding a silky richness you don't get from stock alone.
- Fish or vegetable stock: Keep it hot in a separate pot so the rice cooks evenly without cooling down between additions.
- Arborio or Carnaroli rice: Arborio is easier to find, but Carnaroli holds its shape a little better if you like a firmer bite.
- Onion, garlic, and leek: The leek brings a sweeter, more delicate onion flavor that doesn't compete with the fish.
- Unsalted butter and olive oil: The combination gives you richness and a subtle fruity note without making the dish feel heavy.
- Parmesan cheese: Freshly grated is essential, the pre-grated stuff doesn't melt the same way and can taste dusty.
- Flat-leaf parsley and lemon zest: These brighten the whole dish at the end, cutting through the cream and smoke with a fresh snap.
- Black pepper and sea salt: Go easy on the salt, the haddock and Parmesan already bring plenty.
Instructions
- Poach the haddock:
- Place the haddock in a saucepan with the milk and bring it to a gentle simmer, not a rolling boil. Let it poach for 5 to 7 minutes until the flesh flakes easily, then lift it out with a slotted spoon and set it aside to cool slightly before breaking it into large, tender pieces.
- Sauté the aromatics:
- Heat the olive oil and butter in a large, heavy-based pan over medium heat, then add the onion, leek, and garlic. Stir them around for about 5 minutes until they're soft and translucent but haven't taken on any color.
- Toast the rice:
- Tip in the rice and stir it through the buttery vegetables for a minute or two until the grains turn slightly translucent around the edges. This step helps the rice absorb the liquid more evenly and gives the risotto a better texture.
- Add the poaching milk:
- Pour in the reserved milk from poaching the fish and stir continuously until it's mostly absorbed. The rice will start to release its starch and the mixture will begin to thicken.
- Build the risotto:
- Add the hot stock one ladle at a time, stirring frequently and waiting until each addition is absorbed before adding the next. Keep going for about 20 minutes until the rice is creamy and just tender with a slight bite in the center.
- Fold in the fish and finish:
- Gently stir in the flaked haddock, Parmesan, lemon zest, and parsley, being careful not to break up the fish too much. Season with black pepper and a pinch of salt, and add an extra knob of butter if you want it glossier.
- Rest and serve:
- Remove the pan from the heat, cover it, and let it sit for 2 minutes. This lets the flavors settle and the risotto thicken just a touch more before you spoon it into bowls.
Save One winter evening, I served this to my neighbor who'd just moved in and didn't know anyone yet. We ate it straight from the pan with crusty bread, and she told me it reminded her of a seaside holiday she took as a kid. That's when I realized this dish carries something beyond flavor, it has a way of pulling up memories you didn't know you had.
How to Choose Your Fish
I've tried this with different smoked fish, and haddock works best because it's firm enough to hold its shape but mild enough not to dominate. Smoked cod can work in a pinch, but it tends to be a bit drier. Avoid anything too oily like mackerel, it throws off the balance and makes the risotto feel heavy. If you can, buy from a fishmonger who smokes their own, the flavor is cleaner and less aggressive.
What to Serve Alongside
This risotto is rich enough to stand alone, but I like to serve it with a simple green salad dressed in lemon and olive oil to cut through the creaminess. A glass of chilled Sauvignon Blanc or a dry Riesling works beautifully, the acidity lifts the smoky notes without clashing. Sometimes I'll add a handful of peas or blanched asparagus tips in spring, but honestly, it doesn't need much.
Storage and Reheating
Risotto is always best fresh, but if you have leftovers, store them in an airtight container in the fridge for up to two days. Reheat gently in a pan with a splash of stock or milk, stirring slowly to bring back the creaminess. You can also shape cold risotto into patties, coat them in breadcrumbs, and pan-fry them for crispy fish cakes, which is how I use up the last bits.
- Don't freeze this, the rice texture breaks down and the fish can turn mushy.
- If reheating, do it over low heat and add liquid gradually to avoid drying it out.
- Taste before serving again, you might need a squeeze of lemon or a pinch of salt to wake it up.
Save This is the kind of dish that makes you slow down and pay attention, and somehow that turns an ordinary evening into something worth remembering. I hope it does the same for you.
Recipe FAQs
- → Can I use a different type of fish?
Yes, you can substitute with smoked cod or salmon, though haddock provides the most delicate flavor. Adjust cooking time based on fish thickness.
- → What if I don't have fish stock?
Vegetable stock works perfectly well in this dish. The poaching milk already adds plenty of seafood flavor to the risotto.
- → How do I know when the risotto is done?
The rice should be al dente with a slight bite in the center, and the texture should be creamy and flow slightly when plated, not stiff or soupy.
- → Can I make this ahead of time?
Risotto is best served immediately. However, you can poach the fish ahead and keep the stock warm to speed up cooking when ready to serve.
- → Why is my risotto too thick or too thin?
Add more hot stock if too thick. If too thin, continue cooking uncovered while stirring to evaporate excess liquid until the desired consistency is reached.
- → Should I use dyed or undyed smoked haddock?
Undyed smoked haddock is recommended for a more natural flavor and appearance. Dyed versions can be overly salty and have an artificial bright yellow color.